the WD 40 won't hurt them ad will eventually evaporate. I hope you have a lot of patience, because you should also pull apart any of the 2, 3 or 4 wire connectors, spray them with WD40, and then connect, disconnect and reconnect them a few times to get the matching pins clean. Then give the complete fuse block a good spray clean with electrical cleaner to remove any WD40 and let it dry properly. If it is, then you probably do not have to remove all of them and clean the ring terminals. You might loosen/remove one of the nuts, remove the wire to see if it is clean underneath. Give the nuts of the larger supply wires (top ones) a good brush cleaning. It will help loosen some of the rust and "green crusties"! Then, again, with a small wire or brass brush, clean all the terminals, fuse section dividers and so on. I would disconnect the battery, remove all the fuses, and spray the crap out of it with WD40 to start. Your main fuse block under the dash on the passenger side kick panel is in bad shape. Also, make sure the screw and/or hole in the body where the ground is attaches, is clean, scrape a little paint off, if necessary. Use a small wire brush, (or brass), to clean the terminals if it has one, or, in some extreme cases, use a fine-cut file to get a good, shiny surface on both sides of the terminal. clean the outer shell, particularly where the bayonet pins are, and the center contact. Make sure the center silver contact is clean, and the contact moves in and out, showing that the spring is not seized. Get a small wire brush, round bottle cleaner type, or something that you can get into the sockets ,go around and round the inside of the socket, and then blow it out with compressed air, (if you have access to an air compressor). It is more oily that electrical cleaner, but is is a kind of loosen-all fluid and will help with dirt, crud, etc. Electrical cleaner/spray will work, or a cheaper solution is WD 40. I'm not sure how robust the Dodge turn signals switches are but this is a failure point in the Fords with 6 tail lights.For the bulb sockets, after removing the bulbs, spray a cleaner into the socket. Note: It is highly recommended to convert the rear lamps to LEDs because of the high current that is drawn by incandescent 1157 bulbs. Orange/blue, orange/white, and orange/red are RH. The rear tail light connections are shown in the schematic: green/orange, green/red, green/black are LH, Note: They must not connect to the turn signal switch directly.ħ. The white/blue and green/white wires from the 6-pin relay connector feed the R & L front turn signal lights. The R & L front light wires from your turn signal switch connect to the 8-pin relay connector, violet and white.Ħ. Both R & L rear signal feeds from your turn signal switch connect to the orange/green wire on the motor-driven sequencer.ĥ. The stop lamp relay output, 14 ga green, feeds the 14 ga green/white wire on the 6-pin relay connector.Ĥ. The stop lamp relay 14 ga red wire needs +12V. The output of the stop lamp switch feeds the 18 ga green/white on the stop lamp relay.Ģ. If you review the schematic, you will find:ġ. It is solely used to drive the motor around to the start position after the turn signal lever is returned to the neutral position. The T- Bird sequencer has an additional 2-pin connector with brown, brown/white wires. You have the late '66 T-Bird system with the 4-pin flat stop lamp relay. I just have a mess right now on the table of un taped wiring and miss matched plug ends. So, what will do is run forwards with the wiring to the turn signal switch and stop light switch. It's in the tail end of my 1967 Dodge Coronet 500. Okay, now, here's the kicker, don't be unit isn't in a 1966 T Bird. I have the schematics and have figured out the numbers on the wires and the color codes. What plugs into what? What plugs into the three units bolted to the rubber plate. What I need is a definitive photo of what the entire tail light harness is supposed to look like. One end has been cut through and I think i'm missing some connectors with pins. It's in three pieces and mostly untaped from the factory wrappings. I have a 1966 T Bird tail light system with the rubber patch holding the sequencer, relay and switch, and the old harness that is in poor shape.
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